I have always loved traveling on legendary trains and ships and the stories associated with them. The steamship SS MISR, sailing on the calm waters of the Nile, is one of them.
A few words about one of the most luxurious ships on the Nile
The history of the unit dates back to 1918, when it was given to the then King of Egypt, Farouk. It was a gift from the English government. The ship was transported from England to Alexandria and then to Cairo, from where it made its maiden voyage. After the abolition of the monarchy in Egypt and the removal of King Farouk from power in 1952, the SS MISR became state property.
Only the next owner breathed new life into the steamship. The Egyptian operator and shipowner of Traveline invested a significant amount of money and took care, taking into account the smallest details, to restore the splendor and splendor of the 250s. Sophisticated metal balcony fittings, lacquered wooden floors and carved balustrades definitely distinguish this ship from XNUMX other units on the Nile.
When I boarded it in Luxor, I was proud to receive such an honor!
As befits a historic building with "soul and character", you can expect slightly creaking floors, mahogany paneling, crystal water and wine goblets, porcelain tableware and beautiful antique furniture inlaid with mother of pearl. There were also other style surprises Retro i vintage, such as telephones with dials, antique mirrors in toilets or stylized service uniforms.
The 16 cabins and 8 suites on the SS MISR retain the style and elegance of the past century; a tasteful desk, comfortable beds with Egyptian bedding and a marble bathroom are standard elements of the decor. For solo travelers, I recommend 2 single cabins.
Good taste, the atmosphere of a bygone era and a hint of decadence were for me the perfect basis for an unhurried time travel. In the chic wood-paneled living room, I could spend hours reading the on-board library: old albums and maps, as well as books about Egyptologists' discoveries. It is a real time capsule, and the hint of nostalgia from the last century only adds charm to the journey.
The roof of the ship is a relaxation zone, where I slowly drank afternoon tea, accompanied by freshly baked cakes. A small pool with a depth of 1,5 meters provides a pleasant refreshment on hot days. Observing life on the Nile from the perspective of a vessel floating on the river is the most pleasant and peaceful way to explore the country.
Service on the SS MISR ship
The ship's professional and always smiling staff enchanted me with their unobtrusive hospitality. Royal style breakfasts were served in the Marasem room. Themed evening dinners were a pleasant change and an opportunity to taste international dishes. Egyptian cuisine has always been one of my favorites, especially tahini sauces and baba ganoush made from grilled eggplant. The chef also took care of the palates of vegetarians and people intolerant to gluten.
There is strength in pairs
During our stay, we had one afternoon presentation of the ship: a short informational and historical video and a tour of the unit, including a visit to the heat pump room. Equipment that is over a hundred years old and undergoes regular maintenance is an extraordinary detail and an impressive element of the ship. A visit for afternoon tea on the bridge with the captain, nicknamed "the boss of the Nile", was the culmination of my 6-day cruise, which I did not want to end for any reason. Interesting fact - before our cruise, the captain personally traveled the Cairo-Luxor route in a small boat and checked the water level so as not to risk that we would run aground somewhere. We were impressed by the skillful maneuvers to avoid the shallows.
Trips and sightseeing on the route from Luxor to Cairo – what to expect in the cruise program?
Luxor – the world's largest open-air museum.
Most Nile cruises start from here or end there if the cruise starts in Aswan or Cairo. The newly opened Avenue of Sphinxes is an impressive collection of 1300 unearthed figures over three thousand years. Dozens of Egyptologists have worked on the excavations over the past several decades. The first statues were found by Egyptian researcher Dr. Zakaria Ghoneim in 1949. Grand opening of the Avenue of Sphinxes, also known as "The Path of the Gods" took place in the fall of 2021. "The Path of the Gods" It is as much as three kilometers long, and on both sides of the road there are statues of sphinxes carved from sandstone, which have been buried under the desert sands for centuries. The stone avenue connects two important places - the temple of Amun-Re with the temple of the Birth.
Abydos – an unrivaled civilization and a place of power
Abydos was a thriving city on the west bank of the Nile, and according to the beliefs of the ancient Egyptians, Isis buried there the remains of her husband, who was killed by Set, the demonic god of war and darkness. Abydos became a pilgrimage destination in ancient Egypt; Currently, it is a small settlement located among fertile fields, where everyone trades in whatever they can.
What distinguishes the Great Temple of Abydos from other temples in Upper Egypt? It is famous for its beautiful decorations, considered among the greatest sculptural works of the New Kingdom. In short, it can be said that this is the only preserved temple from the pharaonic era, where both the builder and the rulers were Egyptians. There we will also find the famous "List of Abydos", a chronological list of rulers in the form of a wall relief. The list begins with King Menes of the First Dynasty and ends with Seti I. Despite censoring history and erasing rulers like Tutankhamun and Queen Hatshepsut, it is a great help to generations of Egyptologists.
First of all, we are amazed by the scale, precision of the reliefs and well-preserved colors in Abydos. Continuous conservation work is gradually returning the soot-covered frescoes to their original state. The peculiarities of the Abydos temple include an underground tomb with wells, an underground water connection to the Nile, and hieroglyphs shrouded in mystery, strikingly reminiscent of technological inventions of our times, such as a submarine, an aircraft and a helicopter. It is no accident that these pictures, which do not fit the era of the pharaohs, are located on one and the same piece of rock on the roof of the temple. It gives modern researchers a lot to think about, and it also fired up our imaginations during the trip. It was a talking point for further discussions on the ship, with our guide and the Egyptologist.
There is a hypothesis that the ancient Egyptians could have used electricity. Without it, it seems impossible to make a 0.1-millimeter-thick gold sheet that would be the cladding of sarcophagus XX or to build the Giza pyramids themselves. Despite many theories, there is no logical explanation of how these monumental buildings were created.
Al Minja and Mallawi – rock necropolises and the monkey gorge
Less frequented, El Minya is a place full of tourist surprises. Rarely visited over the last 20 years, it has almost disappeared from the "tourist radar". However, it is worth the effort to get there! The main attractions include rock tombs carved in the limestone cliff on the eastern bank of the Nile, the ruins of the city of Hermopolis near the village of Al-Ashmunayn, 8 km northwest of Mallawi, and the necropolis of Tunat al-Jabal, where the mummies of baboons and ibises were buried. In its heyday, Hermopolis with its palace complex was probably among the most spectacular cities of the ancient world. The models and reconstructions are irrefutable proof of its importance, and the scale and richness took my breath away for a moment. The entrance is guarded by a pair of huge baboons carved in sandstone from the time of Amenhotep III. Stones from the ruins of nearby Akhetaten were used for construction. In the southwest, you can see the remains of the sanctuary of Amun Ramesses II and his son, Merenptah, and Seti II.
The places you visit stimulate your imagination and take you back to the times of the pharaohs. Standing in front of the masterpiece of architecture, I realize that the most impressive contemporary buildings are only mediocre copies of the architecture of ancient and modern times.
While in the Minja area, it is also worth visiting the impressive City of the Dead; it is a huge Christian and Muslim cemetery.
The oldest pyramid in the world Sneferu in Maidum and Cairo - a metropolis that never sleeps
On the fifth day, our last trip took place - a morning visit to the town Maidum (Medun), in the oldest pyramid in the world, of the ruler of ancient Egypt, Sneferu, father of Cheops. The inconspicuous silhouette that appears in the distance actually becomes more attractive when you get to know it better. The step pyramid in Medun was built approximately in the 27th/26th century BC, but it had a structural flaw and was partially destroyed over time. The structure in the shape of a truncated tower has survived to this day, but signs of erosion are especially visible at its base. In the immediate vicinity of the Sefrou pyramid there are two groups of mastabas (a type of tomb) where members of the royal family were buried. An interesting fact is that this is where one of the greatest masterpieces of ancient Egyptian painting comes from - "The Geese of Meidum". The Meidum Geese are a sort of Egyptian Mona Lisa; the wonderful painting comes from the wall of the tomb of the vizier Nefermaat.
Then, already on board, we ate our last dinner. The afternoon was a surprise prepared by the staff. As the cruise was not 100% occupied and the ship's staff had a lot of free time, it was decided to organize a farewell party for the guests at sunset. Reaching the outskirts of Cairo and sipping colorful drinks tequila sunrise I wondered where the locals get so much energy and undying optimism. Egypt is changing, you can see new bridges on the Nile, many schools, roads and investments, including energy, have been built. There has been a sense of optimism since Egypt became one of the leading exporters of natural gas. However, tourism is still the main source of income for most residents. The wealthier neighborhoods on the outskirts of Cairo, with their waterfront villas and restaurants, contrasted with the poorer settlements.
It's a journey through ancient civilizations and an insight into modern life; it gives us the opportunity to observe changes that are taking place in the economy, infrastructure and society.
In the evenings, the boat's management organized walks for us to the villages and towns where we had the opportunity to moor. We attended a local wedding where we were warmly welcomed, despite the fact that it was not a "tourist set." The enthusiasm of the wedding guests and the curiosity of the children, especially the girls, was spontaneous and electrifying!
This somewhat "unreal" experience left me somewhat unsatisfied. I'm already planning another cruise, maybe it will finally be a long-awaited trip on another historic ship on Lake Nasser from Aswan to Abu Simbel or one of the routes by ship or train of the BELMOND network.
Egyptian "Cream de le crème" – cruises on the Nile for the most demanding ones
Intimate boats dahabiya it's an equally unique experience; they are perfect for celebrating family celebrations in small groups and romantic escapades.
Personal butler, kitchen a la carte with freshly caught fish, fruit and vegetables straight from the garden, delicious homemade desserts - all this is standard. Expect much more, but it is the element of surprise that is most important when it comes to top-class Egyptian boats dahabiya.
Egypt – Tailor-made sightseeing and individual sightseeing tours
An individual tour of Egypt with a private driver and guide (Polish-speaking or of your choice) is the best way to learn the secrets of the country and explore the customs of the oldest civilization in the world. By combining a cruise with a stay on the Red Sea on the beaches of Soma Bay or Sharm el Sheikh in Sinai, we will be sure that we will not miss any of the attractions of the land of the pharaohs.
Treasures of ancient civilization – 7000 years of history in 7 or 14 days
A great way to explore Egypt on board a ship or boat dahabiya there will also be a 14-day cruise from Cairo to Aswan, from Aswan to Cairo on the SS MISR ship or another exclusive vessel. This is an option for true connoisseurs who like individual and leisurely trips. This is a real "delicacy" for lovers of the secrets of the ancient pharaonic civilization.
Author: Diana Carter
