It was the eighth day of my trip around this magical country, which was only the halfway point. I decided it was the perfect time to write something and share my impressions. The opportunity presented itself because just before a two-day journey on the luxurious Belmond Andean Explorer train, I caught a cold. So, lying in a comfortable cabin, in a comfortable bed, enjoying a glass of excellent cognac and admiring the extraordinary views through the panoramic window of the cabin, I will try to convince you how much the country is worth visiting and your precious time. Peru.
Lima
After landing in Lima and a quick check-in, I meet the driver who takes my luggage. We head towards one of my favorite hotels – Country Club Lima Hotel. Located in a charming part of Lima, San Isidro, approximately 30 minutes' drive from the airport, in the immediate vicinity of the best golf course, this hotel has become, in a sense, the city's showcase.
The decision to build the Country Club Lima Hotel was made by President Augusto B. Leguía in the 20s. At the beginning it was a clubhouse of the adjacent golf course, but in a short time it became an excellent hotel. Over time, he began to gather the cream of Lima and the surrounding area. It is a place where you can feel the breath of history, full of traces of aristocratic origins. A beautiful entrance door leads to an exciting world, we quickly become a part of it. The hotel is still a very important meeting place for the most beautiful and important of this city. And also those who want to warm themselves in their glow. All you need to do is go to the hotel bar for a drink in the evening, preferably on a weekend, to become part of the high society of Lima.
Another hotel that definitely deserves attention and, in my opinion, the best in Lima is the Belmond Hotel located in the fashionable Miraflores district. Most rooms and suites offer spectacular ocean views. In the immediate vicinity you will find plenty of cafes, bars and restaurants serving various cuisines. The hotel offers spacious rooms even in standard configuration. I especially recommend the Junior Suite, some with a sauna, useful for travelers outside the peak season. Then the temperature in Lima drops to a harsh +15 degrees Celsius. Moreover, there is a fantastic open bar on the roof with a large swimming pool. A wonderful place to relax.
But what I like most is Hotel B, located in a trendy, artistic district with a cozy name, El Barranco. It is a beautiful, almost 100-year-old villa converted into a boutique hotel. It has several tastefully decorated rooms and suites. If someone likes this artistic and elegant style in a boutique style, they will certainly fall in love with this place.
Every time I return to Lima, the city captivates me anew. I no longer pay attention to the chaos on the streets leading to the airport, rickety cars and buses that are several decades old, sometimes without windows. Such views quickly disappear when you enter more civilized and elegant areas. After half an hour of road ordeal, we reach another world, leaving the chaos behind. On the same day, I have the opportunity to taste unique local cuisine. My favorite restaurant in El Barranco – Taberna Isolina – is not particularly fancy or elegant. Go there in comfortable shoes and ordinary, everyday clothes. If you do not make a reservation in advance, be patient and wait patiently for a table. Once you get there, be prepared for the crowds and bustle. But most importantly, you can expect rare culinary experiences. The chef condensed all the exciting experiences into extremely simple, traditional, almost banal dishes. It brings out flavors that seem not alien to us, but with an intensity and expressiveness previously unheard of. Great, more elegant restaurants worth recommending are Astrid y Gaston, Central and Maido.
FUN FACT: Lima is one of the driest cities in the world. Despite its location, it suffers from a shortage of drinking water. And although it may seem like it's always going to rain, it almost never rains. And when it does, it comes in the form of drizzle, only a few days a year. So you don't have to take an umbrella with you, it will never be useful :)
Lima is the largest city in Peru. It's hard to imagine, but in a country with 33 million inhabitants, as many as 12 million live in the capital. By European standards, the proportions are unusual. However, when we look at the map and see that most of the country's territory is covered by high, rugged mountains and jungle, the situation becomes clear.
It is no secret that the societies of South American countries are highly differentiated by class. You can see it almost everywhere. Wealth is mixed with poverty, the character of the middle class differs significantly from European standards. Of course, the differences are not as big as in India or other Asian and African countries, but for a less experienced traveler they are very visible. Lima also has a fascinating coastline, torn by the wild waves of the Pacific Ocean. And if there are waves, then there are surfers. There's no shortage of them here. Driving along the coast, we see hundreds of cars parked by the beach, next to them are wave lovers eagerly putting on their wetsuits or taking their surfboards off their vehicles.
I love walking along the promenade running along the high cliff, along the shore. The usually restless Pacific Ocean does not let itself be forgotten, it still throws out huge waves with a loud noise. Dozens of surfers are trying to tame them like riders on angry horses. With varying results. A wonderful long walk. From time to time, another cafe or restaurant invites you. Wrapped in the slightly cloudy sun, I could walk like this forever.
The historic part of Lima is very interesting. Strong Spanish influences are felt at almost every step. If it weren't for the characteristic, non-European facial features of the inhabitants, one could forget that we are on another continent, a dozen or so hours' flight from Europe. The reason is not only the ubiquitous Spanish language and architecture with strong Iberian influences, but also the peace and security we feel while leisurely strolling the city streets.
In my opinion, the optimal time to discover Lima, taking into account further travel around Peru, is 3 days.
sacred valley
After a few days, I set off on one of the dozens of daily flights available to Cuzco. The journey takes just over an hour, runs smoothly, and we arrive at our destination on time. The next stage is an hour and a half drive to the charming Belmond Hotel Rio Sagrado, where I will spend 3 days.
The biggest local attraction is the Sacred Valley of the Incas, with many interesting places related to their fascinating culture. It stretches from west to east, covering the areas along the Urubamba River, considered not only by the Inca, but also by today's people, to be a sacred river, and between the city with the ruins of Inca buildings in Písac west to Machu Picchu, less than 100 km away. The valley was the most important area of agricultural production, including: maize cultivation in the Inca Empire, and access through the valley to tropical areas facilitated the import of products such as coca leaves and chilies to Cuzco.
Many monuments and remains of villages have been preserved in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. The most important is the town of Ollantaytambo, located at an altitude of approximately 2800 m above sea level, which in its heyday served as a temple, a military fortress and food warehouses. It is an example of the engineering and astrological mastery of the Incas, with well-preserved terraces and defensive walls as well as fragments of buildings. Another very interesting place are the Salineras de Maras salt terraces, where salt has been produced since the times of the Inca Empire. The residents of the surrounding towns, Maras and Pichingoto, who own these areas, have exclusive rights to production. All profits from this activity, but also from tourism, go to them. The salt terraces consist of approx. 5 mini salt tanks with an area of several square meters each, arranged in cascades. A place with unique views, very interesting.
FUN FACT: Did you know that the highest peaks of the Sacred Valley of the Incas are Sahuasiray, rising to 5818 m above sea level, and Veronica, with a height of 5893 m above sea level. The bottom of the valley is on average 1 km wide, it is used for crops, as are its slopes, on which terraces have been created.
The luxurious Belmond Rio Sagrado Hotel, where I stayed, is a charming place, designed in a country style to blend in with its surroundings. It is conducive to blissful relaxation, but is also an excellent base for exploring the wonders of the Holy Valley.
One afternoon I went to take a closer look at the hotel I had stayed at before, but I didn't have the opportunity to meet its owners. Customers stay at Sol y Luna, part of the Relais & Chateaux chain CARTER. This is a perfect place to relax, in my opinion the best place in the valley. It becomes even more valuable when you learn the history of the owners and this place. The charming Madame Petite, who, together with her husband, created this place and is its soul, is a true visionary and a person with a big heart. He runs a thriving foundation, helps the poorest by providing scholarships, and donates a large part of the hotel's profits to charity. Thanks to Madame Petite, some employees escaped poverty and pathological families and were able to receive education. Sol y Luna is much more than a hotel. It is a story of passion, love for the place and people, as well as the desire to help and share. Certainly, in addition to the wonderful, momentous and ubiquitous history of the Incas, Sol y Luna and its owners also have a small contribution to the uniqueness of the Sacred Valley.
After a short but fascinating stay in the Sacred Valley, I set off on the Inka Rail train from Ollantaytambo station. The journey takes an hour and a half and I finally reach the place I was especially looking forward to seeing - Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu
I lived in the town of Aguas Calientes at the foot of Machu Picchu. Hotel Inkaterra offers a unique location amidst lush gardens. The rooms are located in atmospheric stone houses. Each of them offers space, comfortable accommodation and a fireplace that can be lit by the staff upon request. Several suites have their own mini pools with thermal waters. The main hotel swimming pool and jacuzzi are also supplied with water from thermal springs. A great opportunity to relax before a tasty dinner and an escapade to Machu Picchu.
In the morning, accompanied by a guide, I go to the bus stop. There is no other option, everyone who wants to see Machu Picchu must go there by public bus. Mercedes vehicles, clean and comfortable. The journey takes about 15 minutes and leads along a panoramic gravel road. The Machu Picchu walking tour takes almost half a day. You must have comfortable shoes and clothes, take a hat and drinking water. After crossing the gate, the walk lasts several hours with minor breaks. There are many ascents and descents, and it is no longer possible to buy drinks.
Machu Picchu in the Quechua language means Old Peak, at its feet flows the sacred Urubamba River. The city is located at an altitude of 2090-2400 m above sea level, it was built in the XNUMXth century, during the reign of the outstanding Pachacuti Inca Yapanqui. It consisted of two main parts: the lower residential part, full of stone houses with thatched roofs and craft workshops, and the upper one, where the most important buildings and places of worship were located - the Temple of the Sun, the Royal Tomb, the Royal Palace and the Intihuatana, the greatest Inca sanctity. It was a stone astronomical clock, called by the Inca "a shield binding the sun."
Machu Picchu was inhabited by representatives of the aristocracy, priests, soldiers and the selected best craftsmen and artists. The city was an economic, spiritual and military center. The steep slopes surrounding them were developed to create terraces for crops.
What can I say about Machu Picchu? Before arriving, I read a lot about it, looked through blogs and photos, and knew the opinions of many Luxury Travel customers, but what I saw exceeded all expectations! This is an extraordinary place, one of the greatest I have ever seen. Everyone who has the opportunity should visit Machu Picchu!
After this eventful day, I went to meet the owner of the Sumaq Machu Picchu hotel. And here's another nice surprise. A wonderful 5* hotel in a beautiful area. Absolutely recommendable!
In the evening, take a walk through the streets of Aguas Calientes, a colorful town full of tourists. This is the last evening before the next fascinating stage of my journey. In the morning I go to one of the most important and famous places in Peru, namely Cusco.
Cusco – Unesco Heritage
An extremely colorful, lively city, located at an altitude of 3399 m above sea level. The tourist capital of Peru, full of interesting places, historic churches, narrow streets with shops and bars offering dishes from all over the world.
I spent three nights in a beautiful, luxurious hotel Belmond Nazarene Palace, located in the buildings of a former monastery. Both this facility and the neighboring one, currently available as the Belmond Monasterio hotel, are owned by the Catholic Church and are only leased.
FUN FACT: Both monastery buildings, now hotels, are connected by a recently discovered underground passage. Belmond wanted to make them available to his guests, but he did not obtain permission from the church authorities.
By the way, I would like to add that Palacio Nazarenas is the only one in Cusco that has an outdoor swimming pool, and a heated one at that! I won't go into detail about the quality of both facilities, they are the absolute pinnacle in the field of hotel management in every form. So no matter which one you choose, you will experience comfort and the highest quality of services in each of them. Hotels differ in some details, e.g. decor, facilities for families, etc. However, ask an experienced advisor for details CARTER. I assure you that he will advise you professionally.
In Cusco, I was absorbed by the countless art galleries. I have a rich collection of souvenirs from all over the world, which has not been in my home for a long time. A small part of them decorates the office CARTER in Warsaw, at ul. Hoża 50. I also love painting, which had a significant impact on the budget allocated for this trip. I met an interesting Peruvian artist, several of whose works weighed heavily on my luggage.
I spent 5 days in Cusco, including two under the care of a local guide. If your knowledge of English does not allow for free conversation, it is better to choose a Polish-speaking translator for your guide. No one other than an indigenous person talks more passionately about the places they visit. Of course, the knowledge itself can be acquired, but real-life stories, stories from childhood, little stories, legends or secrets hidden in the nooks and crannies of visited places, houses and streets cannot be learned. This guide certainly costs a little more, but it's worth every dollar.
MY ADVICE: Remember to always use pre-booked guides with the appropriate licenses. Not knowing English is not an obstacle for you!
For the remaining two days I moved to the Inkaterra Hotel, located across the square from the Belmond Hotels. The owners of Inkaterra ask that their facility not be called a hotel, but a house. However, the term palace is more appropriate. There are only 12 beautiful, fabulously decorated suites, a wonderful Andalusian-style patio with a garden, a charming restaurant and a bar.
The building is a private family property and is under the jurisdiction of UNESCO. Carefully renovated, it is authentic and a perfect alternative to the hotels across the street. Its advantage is its intimate atmosphere, but on the other hand, the small number of rooms means that it is difficult to book them. The earlier you make your choice, the greater the chance that you will gain the privilege - I am writing this with full awareness - of being his guest. This is one of the hotels where your stay will be remembered for many years.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION*: Due to the high altitude location, most good-class hotels offer oxygenation of rooms upon request, which may be necessary for elderly people and those who cannot tolerate heights. Only Belmond hotels provide this service free of charge! Others demand an additional fee of several dozen dollars per day, per person, and they do not always inform about it when making independent reservations.
All described objects are synonymous with luxury, sophistication and good taste. Beautifully furnished with period furniture and decorated with works of art, surrounded by well-kept gardens, they also offer all modern solutions to make guests' stay more enjoyable. All three deserve to be called hotel masterpieces, but at the same time they are so different that in order to advise you to stay in one of them, you need to know your preferences in detail.
I will add that the hotel base in Cusco is very rich. There are many 5* and 4* hotels there, but also charming 3* ones. So if you are unable to get a room in one of the hotels described, consult an advisor CARTER will prepare the best alternative.
MY ADVICE: Don't be an anonymous guest, just another reservation number in the system! Don't book online. Let yourself be surprised by better prices and individual welcome packages from CARTER!
I spent the next three days independently wandering hundreds of colorful streets and squares, visiting countless churches, museums and getting to know local attractions, bars and restaurants. At the same time, more shopping, souvenirs and small gifts. I wasn't going to write about it, but take it as a warning: I gained 3 kg! The local cuisine can captivate you... From today, no meat and no desserts. Today I'm leaving Cusco.
FUN FACT: The name of the city Cusco in Quechua means the navel of the world. It was the capital of a huge empire which, at its peak, covered areas from Ecuador through Peru to Chile and partly the territories of Bolivia, Colombia and Argentina.
BELMOND ANDEAN EXPLORER TRAIN:
CUSCO - PUNO ROUTE, LAKE TITICACA
Waking up, light breakfast, packing and transfer to Wanchaq railway station. From here I set off on the next stage of the journey – by luxury train Belmond Andean Explorer.
FACT: CARTER he has been the official ambassador of the Belmond brand for 5 years. The only one in Poland and one of the few in Europe. By booking with CARTER, you do it without intermediaries!
This is my second trip by train of this brand, so I know what to expect. However, it is the first one on this route, so there is an element of surprise. Welcome on the platform with champagne and live Peruvian music. From the very first moment, the staff takes care of travelers, looks after their luggage and does everything necessary. Even without knowing the language, no one feels lost. After a short welcome and briefing, each passenger is escorted to his or her cabin by the butler. Typical for the Belmond brand: everything perfect!
Riding a train of this class means everything a demanding traveler can expect. After an hour of rest, we are invited to an à la carte lunch. The kitchen is located on the deck, so the number of menus is somewhat limited, but its quality fully compensates for this minor inconvenience. Following my mother's advice that hot broth is the best remedy for a cold, I ordered such a soup. It doesn't matter that it wasn't on the menu. I explained what I wanted and the cook prepared the broth. Of course, it wasn't as tasty as home-made soup, but I've eaten worse in the country on the Vistula River, famous for the best soups in the world!
There were 2 trips organized during the trip. The first was to visit the Raqchi archaeological park, with structures that are a wonderful example of Inca-era construction. The trip lasts an hour and is of course not obligatory, but worth participating.
Another attraction is the La Raya Pass, reaching an altitude of 4319 m above sea level, the highest during the trip. Here we were surprised by heavy snowfall and rain. The landscape changed in an instant from summer to autumn winter. And although the staff was also prepared for such a surprise (there was appropriate clothing for the guests, umbrellas), I still have a cold. I lie in bed, drinking hot tea and fine cognac, and no one will drag me out of my kingdom. I ordered another pot of mint tea. My butler diligently earns a decent tip by walking down the hall repeatedly on his way to the bar.
FUN FACT: On Belmond trains there is on average one staff member per guest. During my trip, there were 33 service people out of 32 passengers.
It's 17:50 p.m. and it's already dark outside. Dinner time is slowly approaching. And I will once again have the opportunity to enjoy the excellent cuisine of the Belmond restaurant. I plan to spend the rest of the evening at the piano bar, with live music and a glass of champagne. Meanwhile, the staff will prepare a bed for me and, on request, supplement the dose of oxygen in the cabin for a comfortable sleep. That's enough excitement for today. Good night 🙂
Author: Marek Mazur
